My Moroccan Escapade

Morocco - Mosques, Minarets and Markets

Day 1

Our large group of 39, dominated by Australians (surprise, surprise), set off from our Casablanca hotel en route to the capital Rabat, stopping briefly to see the main attraction of Casablanca, the enormous Hassan II Mosque, completed in 1993. The mosque has room for 25,000 worshippers inside, and a further 80,000 can be accommodated in the courtyard. Its minaret is the world's tallest at 210 metres. The mosque is also the largest in North Africa, and the third largest in the world. I was hoping that since we started with the biggest and best mosque there'd be no need need to see any more. No such luck.

Mosques don't come any bigger and better than the Hassan II.

On the way to Rabat our guide Hassan explained the history of Morocco in his strange and heavily accented English. (This was to be the source of great amusement during the tour. For example, not being able to say "teeth", he warned us against using the local water to clean our "teats".) Here is the main thrust of what Hassan said:

• The Kingdom of Morocco has a population of over 35 million and an area of 446,550 square kilometres. The political capital is Rabat, although the largest city is Casablanca.
• It is one of three countries (Spain, France also) to have both Atlantic and Mediterranean coastlines, and it also has a rugged mountain interior.
• Its rich culture is a blend of Arab (from Spanish Andalusia), Berber (indigenous African) and other African, Jewish and European influences.
• Languages spoken are Arabic, French and English, in that order.

We reached Rabat mid-morning and, after a "happy-happy" stop (a misnomer, considering the state of the toilets), we proceeded to check out the spectacular city's main attractions, namely:

1. the mausoleum of King Mohammed V, containing the tombs of the Moroccan king and his two sons, late King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah. Designed by a Vietnamese architect, the building is considered a masterpiece of modern Alaouite dynasty architecture, with its white silhouette, topped by a typical green tiled roof, green being the color of Islam.
2. the Hassan Tower, the minaret of an incomplete mosque. Begun in 1195, the tower was intended to be the largest minaret in the world along with the mosque, also intended to be the world's largest. In 1199, Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour died and construction on the mosque stopped.
3. the Royal Palace, which was protected by high walls so we had to use our imaginations. The grounds were huge so it must have been grand. BTW the King has 12 Royal Palaces, scattered all around the kingdom. He's obviously not short of a dirham or two.

Inside the Mausoleum

The Hassan Tower and unfinished columns

We then departed for Meknes, one of the country's imperial cities. (The imperial cities are the four historical capital cities of Morocco: Fes, Marrakech, Meknes and Rabat.) Dating back to the 11th century, its surroundings remain largely unchanged for centuries (the toilets as well). The old part is encircled by 25ks (!) of huge walls, the main entrance of which, the monumental and beautiful Bab el-Mansour, overlooks a large square. We entered on foot through the gate and then did a tour of the very ornate mosque. Covered with Moorish-influenced tiles, it was indeed exotic and spectacular. Our guide Hassan tried his best to explain the significance of the calligraphy, symbols and colours decorating the mosque (no depiction of any living thing is ever used) as well as its layout and design, but half way through I lost interest, asking myself how intelligent people could believe such a load of bollocks.I prayed (ironic choice of word) that this would be our last mosque. I had done "ABC" (Another Bloody Cathedral) tours in the past; this one was fast developing into an "AFM" tour.

The Bab el-Mansour

We arrived late afternoon in beautiful Fes and settled into our "five-star" hotel (really four, but nice anyway). An hour or so later we climbed back onto the bus in our finery to go and enjoy a superb Moroccan dinner and a folklore show consisting of  a band (singer, violin, lute and Arab percussion), a very good magician and of course belly dancers. Being a tourist show there was the inevitable audience participation. Thankfully I was spared the ordeal of having a pair of tassel-bedecked boobs shaken in my face or being dragged out onto the floor to imitate the belly dancer. One of our group - a school music teacher from the Midlands - wasn't so lucky, but he acquitted himself very well. (He later explained that he had done it before and that his performance was on Facebook.) The four-course meal, featuring lots of figs, dates, olives and spices, was very good. All in all, a very satisfying and enjoyable night.

Day 2

Today was devoted to checking out the medina (old city) of Fes, Morocco's third largest city. Actually it has two medinas, the larger of the which is Fes el Bali dating from the ninth century, which is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is believed to be one of the world's largest car-free urban areas. The place, surrounded by a wall, is an enormous rabbit warren of narrow alleyways, and, without a guide, it would be easy to get lost there. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on your point of view) it was the end of a holiday period and many of the tiny stalls were closed. Normally the place is bustling with locals and donkeys; the only donkeys we saw were us tourists. As well as exploring some of the sections dedicated to a particular trade (eg. spinning, dress making, copper work) we were taken to a rug dealer, a tanner, where we saw hides being tanned in small pools full of pigeon poop (the stench was so unbearable we were given sprigs of mint to hold under our noses), and a weaver, where beautiful silks of agave fibre were woven on a hand loom. Of course the pressure to buy was unrelenting, even from our Insight guides, who were obviously getting a commission. Haggling was an expected part of the purchasing experience; necessary too as the quoted price was often ridiculously high. For example in the rug shop the salesman quoted €5000 for a small rug that I showed a mild interest in. He maintained it was a "museum piece" (probably because it had been there so long) of exceptional quality. I got him down to €500. I didn't buy it though because I didn't really want it, but he didn't seem to understand this. In the end I lost my temper and told him to "rug" off. That's the last time I'll show any interest in buying anything in Morocco. Apart from this incident, however, the morning was fascinating and enjoyable - like a trip back in time.Here are some representative stalls.

An alley in the medina. That's Patricia, an 87 year-old Adelaide woman in our group who had done the tour 5 times! She certainly loves Morocco.

The carpet shop where they don't take "la" (no) for an answer.

Pelts soaking in putrid pools of pigeon poop. Pooooh!

Care for a date?

Spinning a colourful Moroccan yarn.

Day 3

A long day driving southeast, up and over the  High Atlas Mountains. Our first stop was at the Swiss-style alpine village of Ifrane, which in winter apparently is covered in snow and a skiers' Mecca. (A strange thought really: you don't usually associate skiing with Morocco, do you.)

Ifrane. Not exactly Middle Eastern, is it?

We then travelled through cedar forests and stony valleys, home to Bedouin tent-dwelling nomads who make a living by tending their small flocks of sheep. (Well the husband does - the wife stays home to keep tent, raise the children and look after the goats and chickens.) At one point we stopped to pop in on one of the women and inspect her canvas abode - to have an "in-tents" experience, if you will. I thought it a bit rude but the woman didn't get into a flap (sorry), even offering those who could fit in her tent some freshly baked bread and olive oil. I thought her obliging act of generosity seemed a bit fishy but maybe I'm being cynical.

The tent woman and her child.

We then travelled through the Ziz Gorge, which was like a mini Grand Canyon with the river Ziz lined with date palms like a never-ending oasis. The views were spectacular.

The Zig Gorge

We finally reached our overnight stop of Erfoud, a pretty spot where the red sand buildings contrasted against the surrounding yellow desert. The oasis town is close to the start of the Sahara Desert proper and is becoming quite touristy for this reason. It is also the favourite haunt of motorbike riders and rally car drivers (several groups were staying in our hotel that night.) Erfoud has been a filming location for many movies, including March or Die (1977), The Mummy (1999) and Prince of Persia (2010). Our hotel, the Kasbah Cherugi, was a bit of a tourist attraction in itself. A large complex of bungalows built around an oasis style pool, it offers the last word in luxury and ambience. There was even wi-fi in the rooms!

The pool at the Kasbah Cherugi. Pretty spoof, hey!

My exotic room

But the highlight of the day - an optional tour - was yet to come. After quickly settling into our rooms, most of us, in groups of four, got into four-wheel drives for a mad, bumpy dash across the rocky plains for a sunset camel ride on the dunes of the Sahara Desert. I'd never ridden a 'Ship of the Desert' and was determined to add the experience to my list of New Things I had done this year. My appointed camel leader and guide Yeddar, assured me that I was lucky to have got his beast as he was quiet, well behaved and had a small hump so I would get a comfortable ride. (No need for a scrotum massage afterwards it seemed, although the thought had some appeal.) I wasn't so sure though: he was the only camel foaming at the mouth and he was making some very strange howling noises - like someone was inserting a red-hot poker up his anus. Luckily he was fine when the moment came for our dash across the dunes. (Actually a slow trot.) After about 25 minutes of rocking and swaying we reached the base of this tall dune, where we stopped, alit, clambered up to the top, laid out our blankets and settled down to drink our champagne (in my case Jägermeister) as we waited for the sunset. Unfortunately the sun was covered with clouds so we never saw it. No matter, we were too busy talking to the guides and getting pissed. The wind was quite strong and sand was permeating our clothes, drinks, cameras, hair and bodily orifices but still our spirits were not dampened. It really was a magic moment. When we returned to the jeeps we all got the inevitable hard-sell hard-luck pitch for money from the guides. (We'd already paid 200 dirhams - about $30 - for the excursion.) Mine brought out these hand-carved stone figures of camels and so on, but Ian the Jew was not interested, explaining that the only souvenirs he bought were fridge magnets. Instead I gave him a tip of about $5. He was not happy. This was the only sour note to the whole experience but no surprise. Everyone is out to make a dirham in Morocco.

My camel, Abdullah. One hump or two?

Dorrie of Arabia and his trusty guide Yeddar. Cute hey? (The guide I mean.)

Day 4

A long day of travelling but with plenty of interesting stops. The first was to the Carrières de fossiles (Fossils in Sahara Desert), just outside of Erfoud. The area is known for its precious and unique fossils. Back 500 million years ago, the Sahara Desert was under water and all sorts of giant squid and other types of sea creatures such as trilobites and ammonites abounded. On the outskirts of Erfoud you can visit impressive fossil-filled marble workshops that produce not only large pieces of furniture but also small items like paper weights and ash trays in which these prehistoric creatures can be clearly seen. Since I can see a fossil every morning in the mirror I saw no reason to buy anything in the showroom.

Pretty amazing fossils, hey!

What they make out of the fossilised rocks.

The second stop was to see local Berbers water their camels and goats from deep underground wells. Some of the tour members helped the Berbers haul the buckets up from the shafts that seemed to descend forever. Of course they expected us to dig deep into our pockets for tips as well.

Watering the camels

The third stop was to a colourful farmers market - two actually, one being for fruit and vegetables and the other for live animals (mainly sheep and goats). The latter was a bit gruesome, with lots of freshly skinned animal pelts also being traded.

Late in the morning we arrived at the oasis of Tinehir, noted for its silver and jewelry workshops. There is a big gorge nearby called the Todra Gorge which is the city's main tourist draw. We took a detour to explore the spectacular gorge, called the Grand Canyon of the Sahara, and to stretch our legs. The scenery was gorge-ous. (Sorry, that one was too obvious.) Then it was on to a late lunch at Boumalne-du-Dades, in the dry rugged Dades Valley. (The word 'dades' means beautiful, and the place lived up to its name.) The valley was dotted with oases of figs, olives and date palms, with adobe mud houses hugging the slopes of the mountains.

The Dades Valley

The Todra Gorge

In the late afternoon we stopped in the desert for Berber mint tea at an Imam’s house at a traditional Kasbah. (In Morocco the word kasbah usually refers to a single stone or rock tower, either as part of a tower house or a tower isolated on a hilltop or commanding a field. It was a place for the local leader to live and a defense when a city was under attack.) We met the Imam - the local leader of the Islamic community and leader of the daily prayers - and asked him questions about his duties and about Islam in general. It was interesting, but once again I marvelled at the fact that people could believe in such tosh. For example, to become an imam a student has to spend the first 6 years memorising the Koran. Six years!!! What a waste of time and energy. (I'd be no good. It takes me six weeks just to memorise a four digit internet password!)

The Imam

Our final destination was Ouarzazate, nicknamed The Door of the Desert, and capital city of Ouarzazate Province, southern-central Morocco. Ouarzazate is pretty high up (1,160 metres) and is situated in the middle of a bare plateau south of the High Atlas Mountains. To the south of the town is the desert and some say Africa proper. The town is chiefly inhabited by Berbers, who constructed many of the prominent kasbahs and buildings for which the area is known. Ouarzazate is an important holiday destination in Morocco, as a base for excursions across the Draa Valley and into the desert. The Ouarzazate area is a noted film-making location, with Morocco's three biggest studios inviting many international companies to work here. Films such as Lawrence of Arabia (1962), The Living Daylights (1987), The Last Temptation of Christ (1988), The Mummy (1999), Gladiator (2000), Kingdom of Heaven (2005), and Salmon Fishing in the Yemen (2011) were shot here, as was part of the TV series Game of Thrones. Our hotel was very spoofy and has hosted many famous film stars. As I wrote my blog I couldn't help thinking I might be sleeping in the very same bed as used by Brendan Fraser, Russel Crowe or Ewan McGregor! That night I dreamt of mummies, lions and man-eating salmon...

The kasbah town of Ait Benhaddou just outside Ouarzazate. You've probably seen this in many films.

Day 5

Basically only half a day today - a morning drive westwards over the High Atlas Mountains via the spectacular Tizi n' Tichka Pass to Marrakech. We made just one stop to visit a government-sponsored 'Women's Cooperative' producing oil from argan seeds that is used in cosmetics and cooking. (If you've never heard of argan oil, don't worry, we hadn't either.) The women take the locally grown argan nuts (endemic to Morocco), crack them with a stone to remove the hard outer shell then painstakingly grind the  kernels to produce the oil which is fast becoming popular around the world, especially in the beauty industry. It is even supposed to be good for promoting hair growth. Naturally I bought a bottle. (I know, I should have bought a truckload. No need to be nasty.)

The Tizi n' Tichka Pass with a stall of local arts in the foreground.

The women's cooperative producing argan oil.

The afternoon was spent relaxing - either having a siesta in our beautiful hotel or going shopping. No prize for guessing which I did.

That night most of us did the last optional excursion - a short sight-seeing drive to the animated Jamaa Safna Square then dinner in a typical Marrakech restaurant with musicians and dancers. The dinner was so-so but the square was a delight. Famous for being the busiest square in Africa, it was full of musicians, watermen, snake charmers, fortune-tellers, story-tellers, food stalls and other exotic (and noisy) delights. It was packed with people but, according to Hassan, a lot less than normal because of the end of the school holidays. I'd hate to see it when it was really busy!

The Jamaa Safna Square, Marrakech

Day 6

Another half day (yes!) devoted to exploring Marrakech, fourth largest city of Morocco. It was founded in 1071 and became the capital for the two following centuries. The red walls of the city, built by Ali ibn Yusuf in 1122-1123, and various buildings constructed in red sandstone during this period, have given Marrakech the nickname of the "Red City" or "Ochre City". Today it is one of the busiest and most prosperous cities in Africa and serves as a major economic centre and tourist destination.

A swish Marrakech hotel in the typical ochre colour. There are whole boulevards of these.

We spent the morning checking out the Koutoubia Mosque, whose minaret dominates the Marrakesh skyline, then the Royal Palace - the grand Palais de la Bahia, built in the late 19th century and intended to be the greatest palace of its time. After that we were herded into a spice shop to learn about the medicinal and culinary uses of the local Moroccan spices. Most of us would have preferred to have been exploring the souks (markets) and several in the group vented their anger at Hassan for such a blatant grab for our money and wasting our sight-seeing time. (No doubt he was getting a commission.) Despite my displeasure I was sucked in enough to buy a jar of "anti-ageing" cream - not that I need it of course - made from the miraculous argan oil. If it works I'll order more on line. With a younger complexion and a fuller head of hair you won't know me by the end of the year. (In your dreams, Dorrie!)

The Koutouba Mosque

In the courtyard of the Palace

The beautiful tiles in the ceiling of the Palace

This is the miracle cream that will make me look 20 years younger. (No, you can't have any!)

That afternoon I had a full-body massage - the first I've ever had. Probably won't have another. I don't see any point in someone massaging my boobs, spare tyre and love handles. They're already perfectly relaxed and "hanging loose", thank you very much.

Day 7

The morning of our last full day in Morocco was spent driving back to Casablanca. To fill in the time we watched the classic movie of the same name. I wondered about the relevance, however, since Rick's Café (where the story is set) is fictitious and the whole movie was made in a Hollywood studio. It would have been more sensible to have watched The Mummy or The Prince of Persia so we could have identified the settings. Still, it was good to see the film again after all these decades, and it helped while away the hours. It also tied in nicely with the next activity, as you shall see.

That night we all assembled for our last dinner together in Rick's Café, a restaurant, bar and café in the city. Opened in 2004, the place was designed to recreate the bar made famous in "Casablanca". Set in an old courtyard-style mansion built against the walls of the Old Medina of Casablanca, the restaurant/piano bar is filled with architectural and decorative details reminiscent of the film: curved arches, a sculpted bar, balconies, balustrades as well as beaded and stencilled brass lighting and plants that cast luminous shadows on white walls. There is an authentic 1930’s Pleyel piano and As Time Goes By is a common request to the in-house pianist.
We enjoyed a great four-course meal, toasting each other with a hearty "Here’s looking at you kid!"

Rick's Bar. Play it again, Sam.